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Illustrating Our Sameness In Spite of Our Vast Differences

MYANMAR - THE TEMPLE TOWNS



OF KYAUKTAN, BAGO, AND BAGAN


Myanmar is a land of tens of thousands of temples, but wha’t more is that it has a culture of temples. The golden domes of pagodas rise up from the landscape in every direction wherever you are, whether in a densely populated city or three days’ trek into a remote mountainous region. They stand beside modern office buildings and traffic laden streets and they stand alone silently, far from view. The life that springs up in and around temples provides community to all and many outings are in fact geared towards spending time at various temples in a region. Picture the American Sunday picnic tradition. These visits often coincide with new and full moon dates. In Yangon, families come and go in ornately decorated plazas that surround towering pagodas. A grandmother sits reflectively in an open air hall with 150 others in front of a giant Buddha statue as others light candles at altars to the day of their birth as a simple offering. Couples young and old walk together hand in hand, carelessly laughing. Monks meander about and children play. The atmosphere is one of joy more than it is reverence, and all are invited. 

In lesser populated areas, many temple locations are little known and few maps will guide you to them. In the plains surrounding the ancient city of Bagan for instance, in the Mandalay region of Myanmar, over 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas, and monasteries were built between the 11th and 13th centuries. These temples were constructed in an area no more than 100 kilometers square. Only 2,200 temples remain on this plain, and it’s possible to explore here as freely and widely as you like. While many temples’ insides have been closed to the public in recent years for preservation and you can no longer climb atop the roofs of the pagodas (most frequently done to view the sunrise and sunset), it is still possible to discover countless temples ‘in the middle of nowhere’ where you’ll be the only visitor. 

It’s customary to rent an electric scooter in town and head off into the plains in any direction to go ‘temple hunting.’ See a temple over there on the horizon that looks interesting? Point your scooter in its general direction and head off across the red sand-covered plain until you somehow make your way there through paths sometimes widely covered with bramble bushes and small trees. You’ll likely discover at least 100 other temples on the way (literally) as they sprout up every 50 meters or so in many places, often in groupings ranging from three to five or even twelve or more. It’s in these times that the ancient emanations of this land make themselves apparent. One can get used to the all-pervading sense of calm that settles in after only a day or so here. There is also a sense of mystery surrounding these ancient sites, at least for me. I can’t help but wonder what has gone on in these places so many centuries before. Here now are some of the faces of the people of the temple towns of Myanmar.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Kyauktan, Myanmar. Sitting leisurely is a common past time in all parts of Myanmar. This young man stands up from his casual seat to be photographed at the entrance to a temple in this small town.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Kyauktan, Myanmar. A young boy smiles gleefully on the streets of Kyauktan.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Kyauktan, Myanmar. A simple exchange about the area with a local monk leads to his request for a selfie together and he pulls out his cell phone. When we finish, the phone goes away and that is what you see here.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Kyauktan, Myanmar. A young girl stands idly at the entrance to a market stall that offers t-shirts and other souvenirs for sale.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Kyauktan, Myanmar. A man smiles the common red-toothed grin of a betel leaf and areca nut chewer. Much of the country’s population regularly chews the mixture, which acts as a mild stimulant and stains teeth red.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Kyauktan, Myanmar. The Ye Le Pagoda resembles a floating oasis and can only be reached by boat.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Kyauktan, Myanmar. A monk stares out at the waters surrounding the Ye Le Pagoda.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Kyauktan, Myanmar. A boat man pauses in between shuttle runs of visitors between the mainland and the Ye Le Pagoda, visible in the distance.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. A man offers touristic services including discount bus tickets to the north on Bago’s main street before being photographed.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. A young woman outside a small grocery shop demonstrates both the traditional attitude and facial adornment of the Myanmarese people.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. A line of monks more than a hundred long returns to the monastery after making their morning begging bowl rounds. The culture supports this thousands of years old tradition and monks will receive everything they need in their bowls, from food and toiletries to household items and even cash, free of charge.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. The monks finish their morning begging bowl rounds.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. People greet warmth and kindness with more of the same, as does this man on the streets of Bago.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. A woman who appears as ancient as the earth itself stops to join me seated beneath the shade of a tree. We have a brief exchange that does not include any words spoken in a common language.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. The Shwe Maw Daw Pagoda towers 114 meters above the street scene below. Its construction dates to some time in the 10th century.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar, Shwe Maw Daw Pagoda.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. Two young men offer a friendly greeting as evening approaches and the street side market on the opposite side of the bridge closes down for the day.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. A sort of cool vulnerability comes through this young man as he lets his guard down above the river that bisects Bago.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. A bicycle food cart vendor heads out into the evening to set up shop as nightfall approaches.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. A young boy enjoys an evening at home with his family on the outskirts of the city center. His house is made of bamboo and sits perched on stilts one story above the ground.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bago, Myanmar. A young girl in her living room is embraced lovingly by her father Mygee, a jack of all trades who shuttles [heavy] luggage carrying visitors on a motor scooter between the town center and the bus depot, among other things. On the way to the bus station we stop at his house to deliver watermelon and introduce the guitar playing foreigner in his care to his children.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bagan, Myanmar. Sun rises over one of the thousands of temples in the Bagan district.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bagan, Myanmar. A young boy offers his art work for sale to temple visitors just after sunrise. (I buy three pictures.)

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bagan, Myanmar. A family and their roadside water and snack stand in the heart of the temple district. I stop to take a closer look and before I know it, we’re Facebook friends and taking selfies together. They insist on giving me the water free of charge that I attempt to purchase from them.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bagan, Myanmar. Husband, father, and roadside water stand proprietor. Again, the warmth of the people in Myanmar is palpable.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

agan, Myanmar. Young girl with temple behind. As I raise my camera to create a photo, she positions herself just as you see here without any direction on my part.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © The Humans Being Project

Bagan, Myanmar. A temple tour guide and painter sits happily in his front yard after displaying his latest works of art.

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © 2019 The Humans Being Project

Myanmar-Temple Towns of Kyauktan-Bago-and-Bagan-Faces-Portraits-People © 2019 The Humans Being Project

Bagan, Myanmar. Sunlight filters through from above into the central market of Bagan, where goods range from fresh fruit, vegetables, and meat to plastics, household items, and hand crafts. March 2019.

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